Hey there maker! I’m Becky Skuse and I love crochet, sewing and knitting.
I create patterns and teach classes for all abilities – you can find me online, in national magazines or at my craft studio in between Bristol and Bath.
Let me help you make all your creative dreams come true…
Learn new skills My classes and workshops will help you learn new skills, overcome a problem, tackle a tricky project and more! Find out more on my Classes page.
Make something lovely I create quality patterns for happy making! There’s plenty of creative flexibility so you can personalise your version! Check out my patterns on Ravelry or Etsy or Love Crafts. There are also free patterns on this blog. Get in touch if you’d like a bespoke pattern.
Find creative inspiration I’m always bursting with ideas and making something new! So if you need creative inspiration, find out what I’m working on right now on Instagram. Check out my MANY Pinterest boards. Or have a look at the latest issue of Simply Crochet magazine – I regularly contribute colourful projects, compile easy-to-understand tutorials and review the latest yarns.
Contact me Just get in touch for a crafty chat – beckyskuse@gmail.com or call 078111 21381.
Today I’m sharing my easy pattern for making a simple crochet heart! You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used DK and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions or step-by-step guide below – the pattern includes UK and US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and patterns!
Crochet heart (UK terms) (Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could just ch2 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Into the loop work: ch2, 3dtr, 4tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, 4tr, 3dtr, ch2, ss. (Tighten the magic loop.) Round 2: dc in ch-2 sp, (2 htr, 1tr) in next st, 3 tr in next st, 2 tr in next st, tr in each of next 4 sts, tr in ch, (tr, ch1, dtr, ch1, tr) in next st, tr in ch, tr in each of next 4 sts, 2 tr in next st, 3 tr in next st, (1 tr, 2htr) in next st, dc in ch-2 sp, ss in ss from previous rnd. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Solid granny square (US terms) Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could just ch2 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Into the loop work: ch2, 3tr, 4dc, ch1, tr, ch1, 4dc, 3tr, ch2, ss. (Tighten the magic loop.) Round 2: sc in ch-2 sp, (2 hdc, 1dc) in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, dc in ch, (dc, ch1, tr, ch1, dc) in next st, dc in ch, dc in each of next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, (1 dc, 2hdc) in next st, sc in ch-2 sp, ss in ss from previous rnd. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Step by step crochet along: Round 1
Make a magic loopCh21 UK dtr/US tr (yrh twice)2 more UK dtr/US tr1 UK tr/US dc (yrh once)3 more UK tr/US dcCh11 UK dtr/US tr (yrh twice)Ch14 UK tr/US dc (yrh once)3 UK dtr/US tr (yrh twice)Ch2Slip stitch (insert in magic loop, yrh)Slip stitch cont. (pull up a loop, pull thru loop on hook)Tighten magic loop (pull tail end)Round 1 finished! Stop here if want
Step by step crochet along: Round 2
1 UK dc/US sc in ch-2 spIn next st, 2 UK htr/US hdc, 1 UK tr/US dcIn next st, 3 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 2 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next ch, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dc, then ch1In same st, 1 UK dtr/ US tr, then ch1In same st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next ch, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/ US dcIn each of next 2 sts, 1 UK tr/US dcIn next st, 2 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 3 UK tr/ US dcIn next st, 1 UK tr/US dc, 2 UK htr/US hdc1 UK dc/US sc in ch-2 spInsert hook in slip stitch from Round 1Here! Slip stitch (yrh, pull thru ss and loop on hook)Finished! Fasten off.Weave in ends!Finished crochet heart
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing the free pattern for making my crochet colour wheel! You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used DK and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions below – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and other patterns!
Crochet colour wheel
You’ll need to use a yarn with 36 different colours, 3 shades (pale, mid and dark) of each of the 12 colours on the colour wheel.
Red violet: Pale Rose (pale), Fuchsia Purple (mid), Boysenberry (dark)
Stylecraft Special DK colour codes
Colour wheel (UK terms) (Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Using Vintage Peach, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could ch3 and ss to the first ch to join).
Pale section
Round 1: Ch2 with Vintage Peach, then ch1 with Apricot – you should have 3 ch of Vintage Peach (counts as first tr) and a loop of Apricot on your hook. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the Apricot tail.
*Using Apricot, start working a tr into the magic loop: yrh, insert hook in magic loop, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through the first 2 loops, stop here (2 loops of Apricot remaining). Drop Apricot but don’t cut it off. Using Saffron, yrh and pull through the remaining 2 loops. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the tail.
Repeat the process from * with Saffron, changing to Buttermilk on the last yrh of the treble stitch.
Repeat this process to make 1tr in each of the following colours in order: Buttermilk, Lemon, Pistachio, Spring Green, Spearmint, Cloud Blue, Wysteria, Clematis, Pale Rose. Don’t cut any of the colours.
On the final tr in Pale Rose, change to Vintage Peach on the last yrh of the stitch.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 tr]
Round 1 finished
Round 2: Using Vintage Peach ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, changing to Apricot on the last yrh of the treble stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Vintage Peach but don’t cut it.
*Using Apricot, 2tr in next tr (this should be worked into a tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Saffron on the last yrh of the second treble stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Apricot but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make 2tr in each of the following colours in order: Saffron, Buttermilk, Lemon, Pistachio, Spring Green, Spearmint, Cloud Blue, Wysteria, Clematis, Pale Rose. Don’t cut any of the colours.
On the final tr in Pale Rose, change to Vintage Peach on the last yrh of the stitch.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 tr]
Round 2 complete
Round 3: Using Vintage Peach ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next tr, changing to Apricot on the last yrh of the last stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Vintage Peach but don’t cut it.
*Using Apricot, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr (these should worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Saffron on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Apricot but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘2tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Saffron, Buttermilk, Lemon, Pistachio, Spring Green, Spearmint, Cloud Blue, Wysteria, Clematis, Pale Rose. Don’t cut any of the colours.
On the final tr in Pale Rose, change to Vintage Peach on the last yrh of the stitch.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 tr]
Round 4: Using Vintage Peach ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, changing to Apricot on the last yrh of the last stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Vintage Peach but don’t cut it.
*Using Apricot, tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr (these should all be worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Saffron on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Cut off Apricot and knot to Saffron to secure the tail.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘1tr, 2tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Saffron, Buttermilk, Lemon, Pistachio, Spring Green, Spearmint, Cloud Blue, Wysteria, Clematis, Pale Rose. Cut off each colour as you finish using it, except Vintage Peach .
On the final tr in Pale Rose, change to Vintage Peach on the last yrh of the stitch.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [48 tr]
Fasten off Vintage Peach and weave in ends.
Round 4 and Pale Section done
Mid-tones section
Join Matador in top of beg ch-3 from previous round.
Round 5: Using Matador ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, changing to Spice on the last yrh of the last stitch. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the tail. Drop Matador but don’t cut it.
*Using Spice, tr in each of next 2 tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr (these should all be worked into tr of the paler shade of yarn on the round below), changing to Clementine on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the tail. Drop Spice but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘1tr, 1tr, 2tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Clementine, Dandelion, Citron, Apple, Grass Green, Aspen, Cornish Blue, Violet, Magenta, Fuchsia Purple. Don’t cut off any of the colours.
On the final tr in Fuchsia Purple, change to Matador on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [60 tr]
Round 6: Using Matador ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in each of next 2 tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, changing to Spice on the last yrh of the last stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Matador but don’t cut it.
*Using Spice, tr in each of next 3 tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr (these should all be worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Clementine on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Spice but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 2tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Clementine, Dandelion, Citron, Apple, Grass Green, Aspen, Cornish Blue, Violet, Magenta, Fuchsia Purple. Don’t cut off any of the colours.
On the final tr in Fuchsia Purple, change to Matador on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [72 tr]
Round 7: Using Matador ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 5 tr, changing to Spice on the last yrh of the last stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Matador but don’t cut it.
*Using Spice, 2tr in next tr, tr in each of next 5 tr (these should all be worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Clementine on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Cut off Spice and knot to Clementine to secure the tail.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘2tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Clementine, Dandelion, Citron, Apple, Grass Green, Aspen, Cornish Blue, Violet, Magenta, Fuchsia Purple. Cut off each colour as you finish using it, except Matador.
On the final tr in Fuchsia Purple, change to Matador on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [84 tr]
Fasten off Matador and weave in ends.
Round 7 and Mid-tones Section finished
Dark section
Join Lipstick in top of beg ch-3 from previous round.
Round 8: Using Lipstick ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in each of next 5 tr, 2tr in next tr, changing to Copper on the last yrh of the last stitch. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the tail. Drop Matador but don’t cut it.
*Using Copper, tr in each of next 6 tr, 2tr in next tr (these should all be worked into tr of the mid shade of yarn on the round below), changing to Gold on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Knot together the two yarn colours to secure the tail. Drop Copper but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 2tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Gold, Sunshine, Mustard, Kelly Green, Green, Teal, Empire, Lobelia, Plum, Boysenberry. Don’t cut off any of the colours.
On the final tr in Boysenberry, change to Lipstick on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose. Alternatively, you can cut Lipstick and rejoin it.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [96 tr]
Round 9: Using Lipstick ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in each of next 2 tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in each of next 4 tr, changing to Copper on the last yrh of the last stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Alternatively, you can cut Copper and rejoin it. Drop Lipstick but don’t cut it.
*Using Copper, tr in each of next 3 tr, 2tr in next tr, tr in each of next 4 tr (these should all be worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Gold on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Drop Copper but don’t cut it.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 2tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Gold, Sunshine, Mustard, Kelly Green, Green, Teal, Empire, Lobelia, Plum, Boysenberry. Don’t cut off any of the colours.
On the final tr in Boysenberry, change to Lipstick on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose. Alternatively, you can cut Lipstick and rejoin it.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [108 tr]
Round 10: Using Lipstick ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each of next 8 tr, changing to Copper on the last yrh of the last stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose. Twist the two yarn colours together at the back. Alternatively, you can cut Copper and rejoin it. Drop Matador but don’t cut it.
*Using Copper, 2tr in next tr, tr in each of next 8 tr (these should all be worked into tr of the same yarn colour on the round below), changing to Gold on the last yrh of the last treble stitch. Cut off Copper and knot to Gold to secure the tail.
Repeat the process from * to make ‘2tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr, 1tr’ in each of the following colours in order: Gold, Sunshine, Mustard, Kelly Green, Green, Teal, Empire, Lobelia, Plum, Boysenberry. Cut off each colour as you finish using it, except Matador.
On the final tr in Boysenberry, change to Lipstick on the last yrh of the stitch. You’ll need to create a ‘float’ of yarn running across the back of the stitches of the circle – be careful not to make this too tight or loose. Alternatively, you can cut Lipstick and rejoin it.
Ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [120 tr]
Fasten off Lipstick and weave in ends.
Round 10 and Dark Section done!
Circle (US Terms)
Work as given above but work a dc or double crochet stitch every time you see ‘tr’ or ‘treble’ stitch.
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing my simple pattern for making an easy mitred granny square! You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used DK and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions below – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and other patterns!
Change colour for each row and create a rainbow effect!
Mitred granny square (UK terms) (Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Using Yarn A, ch4 and ss to first ch. Row 1: Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), (tr, dtr, 2tr) into ch-4 space. Turn. [5 sts] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in top of the last tr. Row 2: Ch3, tr in next tr, (2tr, dtr, 2tr) in next dtr, tr in each of next 2 tr. Turn. [9 sts] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in top of the last tr. Row 3: Ch3, tr in each tr across to corner dtr, (2tr, dtr, 2tr) in corner dtr, tr in each tr to end. Turn. [13 sts] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in top of the last tr.
Repeat Row 3 until the square is the size you want – you’ll increase the stitch count by 4 sts on each row.
If you want to, you can change yarn colour on the last yrh of the last stitch of the last row.
Border With RS facing, join border yarn in the corner dtr. Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as stitch), 3dc in dtr, dc in each st to next corner, *3dc in corner, 2dc in each row-end to next corner; repeat from * once more, 3dc in corner, dc in each st to next corner, ss to beg dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Change colour for each row and create a rainbow effect!
Mitred granny square (US terms) Using Yarn A, ch4 and ss to first ch. Row 1: Ch3 (counts as first dc throughout), (dc, tr, 2dc) into ch-4 space. Turn. [5 sts] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in top of the last dc. Row 2: Ch3, dc in next dc, (2dc, tr, 2dc) in next tr, dc in each of next 2 dc. Turn. [9 sts] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in top of the last dc. Row 3: Ch3, dc in each dc across to corner tr, (2dc, tr, 2dc) in corner tr, dc in each dc to end. Turn. [13 sts] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in top of the last dc. Repeat Row 3 until the square is the size you want – you’ll increase the stitch count by 4 sts on each row.
If you want to, you can change yarn colour on the last yrh of the last stitch of the last row.
Border With RS facing, join border yarn in the corner tr. Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as stitch), 3sc in corner tr, sc in each st to next corner, *3sc in corner, 2sc in each row-end to next corner; repeat from * once more, 3sc in corner, sc in each st to next corner, ss to beg sc.
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing my simple pattern for making a simple granny square! You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used DK and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions below – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and patterns!
Solid granny square
Solid granny square (UK terms) (Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could just ch4 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 2tr into the loop, ch3, *3tr into the loop, ch3; repeat from * twice more. Tighten the Magic Loop. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 3 tr and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in any corner ch-3 space. Round 2: Ch3, tr into the corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space, *tr into each of the next 3 tr, 2tr in next corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, tr into each of the next 3 tr. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 7 tr and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in any corner ch-3 space. Round 3: Ch3, tr into the corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space, *tr into each of the next 7 tr, 2tr in next corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, tr into each of the next 7 tr. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 11 tr and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in any corner ch-3 space.
You could stop after 3 rounds
Round 4: Ch3, tr into the corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space, *tr into each of the next 11 tr, 2tr in next corner space, ch3, 2tr into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, tr into each of the next 11 tr. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 15 tr and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn D.
Solid granny square
Solid granny square (US terms) Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could just ch4 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Ch3 (counts as dc throughout), 2dc into the loop, ch3, *3dc into the loop, ch3; repeat from * twice more. Tighten the Magic Loop. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 3 dc and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in any corner ch-3 space. Round 2: Ch3, dc into the corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space, *dc into each of the next 3 dc, 2dc in next corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, dc into each of the next 3 dc. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 7 dc and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in any corner ch-3 space. Round 3: Ch3, dc into the corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space, *dc into each of the next 7 dc, 2dc in next corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, dc into each of the next 7 dc. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 11 dc and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in any corner ch-3 space.
You could stop after 3 rounds
Round 4: Ch3, dc into the corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space, *dc into each of the next 11 dc, 2dc in next corner space, ch3, 2dc into the same corner space; repeat from * twice more, dc into each of the next 11 dc. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. [4 groups of 15 dc and 3 ch] Fasten off Yarn D.
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing the free pattern for making a square with a circle at the centre. They’re great for creating colourful effects!
Circle within a granny square
You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used various colours of DK yarn and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions below – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and other crochet patterns!
Circle within a granny square (UK terms)
(Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Circle Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could ch3 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 tr] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in any tr. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, *2tr in next tr; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 tr] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in any tr.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in the stitch at the base of the 3-ch length, tr in next tr, *2tr in next tr, tr in next tr; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 tr] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in any tr.
Square Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), *dc in each of the first 2 tr, htr in next tr, tr in each of next 2 tr, (2dtr, ch2, 2dtr) in next tr (forms corner), tr in each of next 2 tr, htr in next tr; repeat from * three more times, ss to first dc. [48 sts, 4 ch-2 corners] Fasten off Yarn D. Join Yarn E in any st. Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in each stitch to next ch-2 corner, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch-2 corner; repeat from * around, dc in each stitch to first dc, ss to first dc. [64 dc] Fasten off Yarn E.
Making up Weave in all ends on the square. Join your squares together as you wish!
Circle within a granny square
Circle within a granny square (US terms)
Circle Using Yarn A, make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could ch3 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first dc), 11dc into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 dc] Fasten off Yarn A. Join Yarn B in any dc. Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in st at base of ch-3, *2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 dc] Fasten off Yarn B. Join Yarn C in any dc.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the stitch at the base of the 3-ch length, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 dc] Fasten off Yarn C. Join Yarn D in any dc.
Square Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), *sc in each of the first 2 dc, hdc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next dc (forms corner), dc in each of next 2 dc, hdc in next dc; repeat from * three more times, ss to first dc. [48 sts, 4 ch-2 corners] Fasten off Yarn D. Join Yarn E in any st. Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *sc in each stitch to next ch-2 corner, (2sc, ch1, 2sc) in ch-2 corner; repeat from * around, sc in each stitch to first sc, ss to first sc. [64 sc] Fasten off Yarn E.
Making up Weave in all ends on the square. Join your squares together as you wish!
Did you see this rainbow-themed V-stitch crochet blanket I made, using gorgeous Scheepjes River Washed and Stone Washed mini balls of yarn? Well I’m excited to say that the blanket pattern will be in Simply Crochet magazine soon…
I hate weaving in ends so I turned the ends into a fringe instead! If you want to play along, you need a 4mm hook and this lovely pack of Scheepjes mini yarns:
You can choose your own colour sequence, but if you want to create a blanket exactly like mine, work your Scheepjes River Washed and Stone Washed yarn rows in the following order: Row 1 Stone Washed Moon Stone 801 Rows 2 & 59 Stone Washed Citrine 817 Rows 3 & 60 Stone Washed Beryl 833 Rows 4 & 61 Stone Washed Yellow Jasper 809 Rows 5 & 62 Stone Washed Enstatite 832 Rows 6 & 63 River Washed Ural 959 Rows 7 & 64 River Washed Narmada 962 Rows 8 & 65 Stone Washed Canada Jade 806 Rows 9 & 66 Stone Washed Pedirot 827 Rows 10 & 67 Stone Washed Lemon Quartz 812 Rows 11 & 68 Stone Washed New Jade 819 Rows 12 & 69 Stone Washed Fosterite 826 Rows 13 & 70 Stone Washed Malachite 825 Rows 14 & 71 River Washed Congo 954 Rows 15 & 72 River Washed Amazon 951 Rows 16 & 73 River Washed Po 955 Rows 17 & 74 River Washed Tiber 958 Rows 18 & 75 River Washed Severn 953 Rows 19 & 76 River Washed Danube 948 Rows 20 & 77 River Washed Rhine 952 Rows 21 & 78 River Washed Wheaton 950 Rows 22 & 79 Stone Washed Blue Apatite 805 Rows 23 & 80 Stone Washed Green Agate 815 Rows 24 & 81 Stone Washed Turquoise 824 Rows 25 & 82 Stone Washed Larimar 828 Rows 26 & 83 Stone Washed Amazonite 813 Rows 27 & 84 Stone Washed Crystal Quartz 814 Rows 28 & 85 Stone Washed Smokey Quartz 802 Rows 29 & 86 Stone Washed Black Onyx 803 Rows 30 & 87 Stone Washed Obsidian 829 Rows 31 & 88 Stone Washed Brown Agate 822 Rows 32 & 89 Stone Washed Boulder Opal 804 Rows 33 & 90 Stone Washed Axinite 831 Rows 34 & 91 Stone Washed Lilac Quartz 818 Rows 35 & 92 Stone Washed Deep Amethyst 811 Rows 36 & 93 Stone Washed Lepidolite 830 Rows 37 & 94 River Washed Yarra 949 Rows 38 & 95 River Washed Colorado 941 Rows 39 & 96 River Washed Eisack 957 Rows 40 & 97 Stone Washed Corundum Ruby 808 Rows 41 & 98 Stone Washed Garnet 810 Rows 42 & 99 River Washed Ganges 945 Rows 43 & 100 River Washed Steenbras 942 Rows 44 & 101 River Washed Mekong 943 Rows 45 & 102 Stone Washed Tourmaline 836 Rows 46 & 103 Stone Washed Rose Quartz 820 Rows 47 & 104 Stone Washed Rhodochrosite 835 Rows 48 & 105 Stone Washed Red Jasper 807 Rows 49 & 106 Stone Washed Carnelian 823 Rows 50 & 107 River Washed Mississippi 946 Rows 51 & 108 River Washed Avon 956 Rows 52 & 109 River Washed Seine 947 Rows 53 & 110 River Washed Nile 944 Rows 54 & 111 River Washed Mersey 961 Rows 55 & 112 Stone Washed Coral 816 Rows 56 & 113 River Washed Murray 960 Rows 57 & 114 Stone Washed Morganite 834 Rows 58 & 115 Stone Washed Pink Quartz 821 (Rows 59-115 Repeat from Row 2.)
I’ll let you know as soon as I know which issue of Simply Crochet it will appear in.
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing the free patterns for making these adorable animal face granny squares – there’s a cute bear, a wise bunny, a cheeky monkey, an energetic dog and a sleepy cat.
Animal face granny squares by Becky Skuse
You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used two colours of DK yarn and a 4mm hook) and follow the written instructions below – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and other crochet patterns!
Animal granny square (UK terms)
(Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Animal face (all squares) Using Yarn A (animal face shade), make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used a Magic Loop, but you could ch3 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 tr] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, *2tr in next tr; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 tr]
Do not fasten off. Work the ears according to the animal square you want to make, as instructed below:
Bear ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: Working in the front loops only of the stitches from Round 2: *Skip 1tr, 6tr in front loop only (flo) of next tr, skip 1 tr, ss in flo of next tr.** Ss in flo of each of the next 3 tr, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Monkey ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: Working in the front loops only of the stitches from Round 2: *Skip 1tr, 6htr in front loop only (flo) of next tr, skip 1 tr, ss in flo of next tr.** Ss in flo of each of the next 9 tr, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Cat ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: *Ch4, then work into these 4 ch: skip 1ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next last ch. Skip 2 tr from Round 2, ss in front loop only of next tr from Round 2.** Ss in flo of each of the next 2 tr, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Sleepy cat granny square
Large ears for rabbit or flap-eared dog These are made separately and sewn in place later, so fasten off Yarn A. Using Yarn A, ch7. Round 1 Skip 2 ch (counts as htr), 2htr in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, ss in next ch, ss in last ch. Rotate the piece to work down the other side of the chain. Ss in first ch, ss in next ch, dc in each of next 2 ch, 4htr in last ch, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off Yarn A, leaving a long tail for sewing the ear in place later. Repeat to make 2 ears in total for your dog or rabbit. Set them aside to sew in place later.
Background (all squares) After making the ears, create the background – I used blue yarn. Locate the treble stitch at the top of the animal face, in between the ears if you’ve made the bear, monkey or cat. Join Yarn B in the back loop only (blo) of this stitch. Round 3 Work your stitches of this round in the back loop only (blo) of the stitch below. Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in the stitch at the base of the 3-ch length, tr in next tr, *2tr in next tr, tr in next tr; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 tr] Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), *dc in each of the first 2 tr, htr in next tr, tr in each of next 2 tr, (2dtr, ch2, 2dtr) in next tr (forms corner), tr in each of next 2 tr, htr in next tr; repeat from * three more times, ss to first dc. [48 sts, 4 ch-2 corners] Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in each stitch to next ch-2 corner, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch-2 corner; repeat from * around, dc in each stitch to first dc, ss to first dc. [64 dc] Fasten off Yarn B.
Making up Weave in all ends on the square. If you’ve made large ears for the rabbit or flap-eared dog, use the long tails to sew them into place. Use lengths of spare black or dark brown yarn, and a sharp tapestry needle, to embroider faces on your animals. I used straight stitches, couching stitches, satin stitch and simple knots. Join your squares together as you wish! Try making plain squares in Yarn B and mix them together with the animal squares.
Plain square without ears and face
Animal granny square (US terms)
Animal face (all squares) Using Yarn A (animal face shade), make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used Magic Loop, but you could ch3 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first dc), 11dc into loop, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [12 dc] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in st at base of ch-3, *2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 dc] Do not fasten off. Work the ears according to the animal square you want to make, as instructed below:
Animal granny squares
Bear ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: Working in the front loops only of the stitches from Round 2: *Skip 1dc, 6dc in front loop only (flo) of next dc, skip 1 dc, ss in flo of next dc.** Ss in flo of each of the next 3 dc, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Monkey ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: Working in the front loops only of the stitches from Round 2: *Skip 1dc, 6hdc in front loop only (flo) of next tr, skip 1 dc, ss in flo of next dc.** Ss in flo of each of the next 9 dc, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Cat ears Without fastening off, continue as follows: *Ch4, then work into these 4 ch: skip 1ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next last ch. Skip 2 dc from Round 2, ss in front loop only of next dc from Round 2.** Ss in flo of each of the next 2 dc, then repeat from * to **. Fasten off Yarn A.
Sleepy cat granny square
Large ears for rabbit or flap-eared dog These are made separately and sewn in place later, so fasten off Yarn A. Using Yarn A, ch7. Round 1 Skip 2 ch (counts as hdc), 2hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in each of next 2 ch, ss in next ch, ss in last ch. Rotate the piece to work down the other side of the chain. Ss in first ch, ss in next ch, sc in each of next 2 ch, 4hdc in last ch, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off Yarn A, leaving a long tail for sewing the ear in place later. Repeat to make 2 ears in total for your dog or rabbit. Set them aside to sew in place later.
Background (all squares) After making the ears, create the background – I used blue yarn. Locate the dc stitch at the top of the animal face, in between the ears if you’ve made the bear, monkey or a dog with pointed ears. Join Yarn B in the back loop only (blo) of this stitch. Round 3 Work your stitches of this round in the back loop only (blo) of the stitch below. Ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the stitch at the base of the 3-ch length, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [36 dc] Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), *sc in each of the first 2 dc, hdc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next dc (forms corner), dc in each of next 2 dc, hdc in next dc; repeat from * three more times, ss to first dc. [48 sts, 4 ch-2 corners] Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *sc in each stitch to next ch-2 corner, (2sc, ch1, 2sc) in ch-2 corner; repeat from * around, sc in each stitch to first sc, ss to first sc. [64 sc] Fasten off Yarn B.
Making up Weave in all ends on the square. If you’ve made large ears for the rabbit or flap-eared dog, use the long tails to sew them into place. Use lengths of spare black or dark brown yarn, and a sharp tapestry needle, to embroider faces on your animals. I used straight stitches, couching stitches, satin stitch and simple knots. Join your squares together as you wish! Try making plain squares in Yarn B and mix them together with the animal squares.
To celebrate Granny Square Day I’m sharing my simple pattern for making an easy peasy granny square! You can use any yarn and hook you like (I used DK and a 4mm hook) and follow the chart or the written instructions – just scroll down for the pattern in UK or US crochet terms. While you’re here, check out my classes and patterns – you could join your granny squares to make my rainbow blanket! Check out my easy pattern on Etsy.
Crochet granny square (UK terms) (Scroll down for US crochet terms)
Make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used Magic Loop, but you could just ch4 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Ch3, 2tr into the loop, ch3, *3tr into the loop, ch3; repeat from * twice more. Tighten the Magic Loop. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Round 2: Slip stitch into each of the next three sts. Ch3, 2tr into the corner space, ch3, 3tr into the same corner space, ch1, *3tr into the next corner space, ch3, 3tr into the same corner space, ch1; repeat from * twice more. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Round 3: Slip stitch into each of the next three sts. Ch3, 2tr into the corner space, ch3, 3tr into the same corner space, ch1, 3tr into the next side space, ch1, *3tr into the next corner space, ch3, 3tr into the same corner space, ch1, 3tr into the next side space, ch1; repeat from * twice more. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Fasten off.
Crochet granny square (US terms) Make a foundation ring using your preferred method (I used Magic Loop, but you could just ch4 and ss to the first ch to join). Round 1: Ch3, 2dc into the loop, ch3, *3dc into the loop, ch3; repeat from * twice more. Tighten the Magic Loop. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Round 2: Slip stitch into each of the next three sts. Ch3, 2dc into the corner space, ch3, 3dc into the same corner space, ch1, *3dc into the next corner space, ch3, 3dc into the same corner space, ch1; repeat from * twice more. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Round 3: Slip stitch into each of the next three sts. Ch3, 2dc into the corner space, ch3, 3dc into the same corner space, ch1, 3dc into the next side space, ch1, *3dc into the next corner space, ch3, 3dc into the same corner space, ch1, 3dc into the next side space, ch1; repeat from * twice more. Slip stitch to top of the 3-ch at the beginning. Fasten off.
I teach personalised one-to-one crochet classes and workshops!
Are you a beginner who wants to learn to crochet? Do you already crochet but need a bit of help with something? I’m the smiley expert you’ve been looking for! I’m based in between Bristol and Bath for in-person sessions.
Click on a class below to find out more or just keep scrolling and have a browse:
If you’re not sure which session is right for you, get in touch with me – I love a bit of crafty chat! My email is beckyskuse@gmail.com or call 078111 21381. You can find out more about me, my classes and my free craft group on my Classes page.
Beginners Crochet (I recommend at least 2 sessions) Start your crochet journey with me – I’ll make it easy and fun! Tailored to complete beginners, each one-hour session will build new skills gradually that you can practice at home in between sessions. You’ll learn new skills at your own pace – groups are limited to 3 so you get plenty of support. We’ll start by making a simple coaster, granny square or flower, while you learn all about hooks, yarns, chains, stitches, tension and more.
Crochet Beyond The Basics (ongoing sessions) Let’s hook projects together! We’ll have fun with colour, shape and texture, while learning simple new techniques. A good choice for those moving on from the beginner class. Bring a pattern you’d like to make or choose from my vast library. Possible projects include a stripy scarf, pyramid doorstop, layered flowers, peaked hat, granny square bag, quick mittens, chunky basket, granny square blanket, V-stitch wrap, colourful bunting, and anything else you’d like!
Colour Therapy (ongoing sessions) Fall in love with crochet colourwork! Great if you’re graduating from the beginners class, we’ll start by making simple granny squares and mandalas, and gradually learn new skills. Possible projects include a granny square bag, rainbow blanket, spike stitch argyle mittens, intarsia and Fair Isle letter squares, gingham-effect entrelac cowl, corner-to-corner geometric blanket, mosaic crochet blanket and anything else you’d like!
Amigurumi Addict (I recommend at least 2 sessions) I have all the tips you need to create adorable crochet toys – from the basics of working in a spiral and invisible decreases, through to stuffing and creating moveable limbs, right up to creating faces and hair. Bring a toy pattern you’d like to make, choose from my vast library or use one of my designs. I’ll get you started on making the pattern and you can finish it at home or book another session. Good for anyone moving on from the beginner class.
Texture Stitches (ongoing sessions) Do you love the look and touch of lace, cables and bobbles? Then you’ll love this class designed to teach you texture techniques (you’ll need to have mastered the basics first). Possible projects include puff stitch blanket, broomstick lace scarf, cable headband, hairpin lace top, crocodile stitch tree, bullion stitch flowers, Solomon’s Knot wrap, surface braided cowl, extended stitch wall hanging, popcorn stitch tree, filet lace table runner and anything else you’d like!
Finish With Flair (ongoing sessions) Do you struggle with the finishing process, after you fasten off? I’ll share some designer tricks to reduce the time, effort and stress involved in weaving in ends, sewing up, adding edgings and more. Good for any crocheter, bring your latest project if you like. Possible projects include a lined purse, edged place mats, sewn-on motifs, surface crochet gadget cosy, fringed wall hanging, clasped purse, tassel bunting, pompom animals or whatever you’d like!
Something Special (ongoing sessions) Ideal for adventurous crocheters, in this class you’ll learn some unusual and amazing crochet techniques! Best for more confident crocheters. Possible projects include Tunisian crochet sunglasses cosy, wire crochet jewellery, felted purse, pompom animals, braided belt, sequin motifs, Bavarian crochet bag, interlocking crochet trivet, Bruges crochet baby mobile, clasp party bag, bowl made with your own T-shirt yarn, and anything else you’d like!
Fix-it Hour The perfect session for troubleshooting a work-in-progress, a craft-along, or helping you start a new project. Bring a project you’re stuck on and I’ll help you find the answers you need. Or let me help you choose a pattern to suit your ability and interests – I have a vast library! I’ll also help you pick yarn or fabric, explain any tricky parts of a pattern, and get you started on making it – you can finish it at home or book another session for us to work on it together. It’s easy when you know how and I’ll be right by your side.
Learn how to crochet cables and make a cosy hairband
Becky Skuse 
You must be logged in to post a comment.